Rolex Submariner 16808

The most notable feature of the Ref 16808 is the all-gold construction. The 40-millimeter case is 18-karat yellow gold. Rolex has an in-house foundry, giving the Swiss watchmaker full control over its gold alloys.

This Rolex Submariner watch became available in 1979 as part of the 168xx series. This particular series is notable because it features a sapphire crystal and an updated movement. The Ref 16808 is Rolex's first gold dive watch to feature the new crystal. It's also the first to have the Caliber 3035 movement with the new quick-set date feature.

From a design standpoint, the Ref 16808 stands out with an 18-karat yellow gold Oyster bracelet featuring a folding clasp. The all-gold construction replaces the traditional stainless steel, and Rolex continues the finish on the dial. The Ref 16808 is available with black or blue dials and matching unidirectional dials.

Look closer, and you'll see that Rolex also refined the indexes. Unlike other Submariner watches, this model doesn't have flat hour markers. Instead, it features Rolex's "nipple dial" with raised circular indexes. It glows, thanks to the Tritium inserts. The date window with a Cyclops magnifying lens appears at the 3 o'clock position.

Beyond the gold finish, the Ref 16808 is more durable than previous models. The Triplock crown allows it to remain water-resistant to depths as low as 300 meters. The new sapphire and upgraded water resistance rating combined with the vintage design language of models past make this Rolex Submariner watch a transition reference that bridges old and new.